It is time for a hike, but what does one do in December?? The mountain byways are snowed in. Weather is totally unpredictable over a few thousand feet above sea level. My favorite area for this time of year is the northeast corner of the Olympic Peninsula in Washington. It lies perfectly in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, and the town of Sequim is famous for low rainfall and sun breaks. One of my favorite spots is Dungeness Spit, a unique sand bar that juts out into the Strait of Juan de Fuca just northwest of Sequim, and it makes a lovely walkable beach. It is about an hour from where I live on the Kitsap Peninsula, so perfect for a Sunday hike. The nice thing about the spit is that it is an out and back hike, so you can gauge your distance to how you feel or the amount of time available. If you are ambitious, then you can travel to the end of the spit where there is an old lighthouse, the first in the state and built over 160 years ago.

I arrived at the parking lot a little before 9:00, and there were only a few cars. Lot’s of birders visit since this is the home of the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge, and birds are very abundant. The cost is $3.00 or a interagency pass, cash or check only.

The trail leading down to the beach is excellent, and you may see a deer if you look carefully through the woods. The understory is full of ferns and mushrooms, and very wet this time of year. If you enjoy the woods, there is a primitive trail option for more of a wilderness experience.

Soon you begin to hear the sounds of the surf and the trail opens up to a view of the spit. Now a spit is basically a bunch of sand and sediment deposited by either the tide, a river, or both that sticks out into the open water.

The trail starts in the lower left of the map and tracks along the west side of the spit heading northeast. The east side of the spit is off limits as it is a sensitive nesting ground for all kinds of wildlife. Weather comes from the west and the Pacific Ocean can be seen in the distance.

The nonstop action of the straight brings in lots of driftwood and kelp, and high tide makes hiking a bit of a challenge unless you want to get wet. Low tide is an easier hike. The beach is rough with rock as well as sand and very uneaven, so come prepared with good ankle support and hiking poles. There is a lot of beautiful rock to admire along the way.

The birds are everywhere! I saw three bald eagles along the way and was able to catch a nice video of the big fellow take off and soar away.

After hiking for just over five miles, you come upon the lighthouse, which is a historic and beautiful grouping of buidings housing the light that has guided ships for over 150 years into Puget Sound. Now everything is automated, but you can see the ruins of the past all around, and a number of rooms under the lighthouse are set up with displays and lots of information. There is a restroom and running water, drawn from an artesian well.

The area is managed by the Coast Guard but most of the time you’ll run into volunteers who are caretakers of the area and are knowledgeable of the history and specifics of the lighthouse. I had a fine chat with two of them and then had some lunch. They told me about a resident group of bald eagles who basically live on the spit, and can be seen just about every day looking for their next meal, or just hanging out. The very end of the spit is off limits for the wildlife. Another interesting fact about the spit is that it is growing as more deposition occurs from the tides and the outflow of the Dungeness River which brings down silt from the Olympic Mountains. I was able to climb up with one of the volunteers to the top for a nice panoramic view!

The way back is just a repeat, but you can see pieces of the Olympic Mountains peering through the clouds in the distance. Note the driftwood and kelp all over the spit. It pays to know the tides and the weather: a storm and extra high tide can wash right over the spit, and be very dangerous to the unaware hiker.

For me, this view is the essence of peace. It so recharges me and help me to center my gaze on what is right about this world.

After almost eleven miles, I found myself back at the car and ready to make my way home. Not only was this a great winter hike with beautiful views and wildlife, but a meditative place that will help set the tone for my week ahead.

Tide tables and other info:

https://www.usharbors.com/harbor/washington/dungeness-wa/tides/

Trail info:

https://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/dungeness-national-wildlife-refuge